In the national park, the pitches were fully booked for weeks, so that we had to find a place to stay outside. In the beginning I felt this as a stopgap solution, but in the course of time it felt really good. Three times we went on day trips to the park and each time we were impressed by the grandiose mountain desert landscape. The Rio Grande flows through the national park, which here also forms the border between Mexico and the USA.
The rest of the time we spent at the Amigo or within the town in very different weather conditions. There were warm days with lots of sunshine, in two nights it rained, sometimes a stormy wind blew and often the sky was cloudy. At night it was cold and with clear skies the stars fascinated. Since there were no street lamps, it was quickly almost pitch black after sunset. Our headlamps were then, to the delight of Saradevi, very useful.
Terlingua has no more than two hundred inhabitants and is spread over a very hilly landscape. I read on Wikipedia that miners lived here and that the area around Terlingua contributed 40% of the country’s mercury production even until the Second World War.
The dwellings moved with the mines. The part of town where we stayed is called Ghost Town. There is an old cemetery here, but it is still in use today. A few dilapidated dwellings of the mine workers still stand in the landscape, the store with saloon forms a (touristic) secondary center with daily live music. Here and there smaller tourist accommodation is built, countless campgrounds and RV parks are spread all around the large town – I think Terlingua is experiencing another flowering in its development.
I will always remember the barren, bleak landscape that Saradevi and I like very much and that reminds us a little of the dune landscape of Texel: nothing as far as you can see and an endless sky! And the people here: drop-outs, prowlers and stranded people. Artists, pensioners in retirement, restaurateurs. All, it seemed, with plenty of time. It’s a leisurely village, and small talk can last a while…